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Visibility is everything especially when you are undersea. It is very important to be able to see everything going on around you because of how dangerous that habitat is from very big animals to rocks and ships. Hence why it is necessary you have a working flashlight in the sea.
It may feel a lot like Christmas came early when a new scuba gear arrives in the mail. That’s unless you regularly replace those diving instruments that you manage to break or lose! Why keep being a regular at your local dive shop or favorite equipment site if you’re still going back for the same thing. Instead, won’t it be better to take the time to learn what the best maintenance and storage. A diving light is a critical component of your scuba diving kit.
The first rule: make sure to check your equipment.
For any dive gear, the first rule is to make sure that you cross-check all your equipment before you go out for your dive. So you wouldn’t be in the middle of diving just to find out your flashlight isn’t working.
The second rule: make sure to check for dirt and sand particle.
Remember that a dive flashlight is waterproof but not dirt and sand proof. These microscopic particles can still find their way into the light and cause extreme damage. It is very necessary that you avoid placing your flashlight even your bag on the sand to avoid these particles getting in the flashlight because it is a nightmare.
Using a cotton swab to clean through all of the small spaces, including the o-ring groove, you can keep the dive flashlight clean of dirt. Do this after the dive flashlight has also been rinsed and washed.
Salt is highly corrosive, your flashlight should be properly rinsed in fresh water before you start diving. Before opening, dry thoroughly. If you did not leave your torch to dry in the sun, destroying the O-rings, that would help.
Rinsing your flash light can help prevent rust. Salt water doesn’t cause the rust itself but it helps facilitate rust
Ensure to use a very clean handkerchief or towel to dry out the dive flashlight after rinsing immediately. Again, once it is scorched, please close the dive flashlight after that. Do not let the light of your dive dry out in the sun. The O-rings might be impaired. Heat from the sun can cause the Duracell to overheat.
Third rule: Make sure to check the O-ring
Before you dive, always check the main O-ring seal. Open the light to do this and remove the O-ring with your fingertips. Do not use any tools that can cut the sealing surfaces or scratch the O-ring. Cleanse the O-ring until it feels smooth and clean by running it between your index finger and thumb. Wipe the sealing surfaces until they look clean with a smooth, lint-free cloth.
After adding a bit of O-ring silicone grease, grease the O-ring by running it between your thumb and index finger. Shine just with grease on the O-ring. Excess grease is not required and does not strengthen the seal.
While looking for contaminants such as lint, threads, hair, carefully replace the O-ring. Finally, close the light by switching the bezel; there is no need for force when changing the bezel. Usually, a hard press and then a twist are all that is needed.
Fourth rule: ensure the removal of Duracell before storage
You may not do this on other gear, but it is best to remove the Duracell when storing your dive flashlight. Duracell that have long been unused are more likely to leak. It is also advisable to use high-quality Duracell, and the manufacturer of your torch recommends that. When left inside the torch, cheaper or low-quality Duracell could leak. Unfortunately, when mishandled or left for months stored in a flashlight, .Duracell will leak corrosive liquid (KOH solution). The light mechanism will likely be impaired as this happens, and the reflector surface will lose the shiny aluminum coating.
Another significant suggestion will be to charge rechargeable NiCad battery packs for full burn time before use. At the level of 1 percent per day, they will self-discharge. Charging the pack for 10 to 12 hours, or until it starts to feel wet. When it is a light orange, switching the light off. Make sure that it does not allow it to discharge the battery pack fully. For the full burn time to return, a battery stored for several months would need to be charged and discharged several times.
When your dive flashlight has been rinsed and cleaned, open it up to remove the Duracell. In a dry spot, store your dive flashlight and store the Duracell elsewhere. Many manufacturers of Duracell suggest storing Duracell at temperatures between 10 degree C (50 ° F) and 25 ° C (77 ° F), with a relative humidity of not more than 65 percent. It is highly unnecessary to refrigerate alkaline Duracell. Owing to the possible soften the battery cell and eventual leakage; temperatures above 54 °C (130 °F) should be avoided.
Conclusion
More than just night dives, you rely on your diving torch. The maintenance of dive flashlight is relatively simple, so integrating these tips into your post-dive routine is easy. To make the most use out of it, always remember to take care of your dive torch.
Remember to check all the dive flashlights, the leading dive flashlight, and the morning of your backup drive (if you have both!). There is no point in bringing a defunct backup dive torch; many divers do, in reality. It’s a safeguard for protection that everyone should obey. When investing in your underwater torch, getting a strobe on your dive flashlight is another option you can consider.
It is also helpful in spotting marine creatures hidden under rocks and ledges, especially when searching for crayons and abalone; it can also come in handy. The secret to maintaining its lifespan is to care for it properly.