Dive Knife Maintenance Tips – How to Clean your Dive Knife

Overview

Getting a knife and not wanting one is better than needing a knife and not having one. So, the saying goes, and there is a lot of truth to it. For serious divers, the diving knife is an invaluable weapon.A diving knife is a must-have equipment for any diving kit, available in a range of sizes and styles, boasting both long and short blades made of durable, resistant to corrosion metals and a choice of cutting blades to perform various cutting tasks.

Not only for spear fishermen and technical divers, but also for recreational scuba divers, a dive knife is a useful equipment. If you get stuck on a fishing line, net or seaweed, this tiny accessory will make a big difference. A knife may also act as a heavy current anchor to the sea bed or a ‘tank-knocker’ to get the attention of your friend. It’s essential to reflect about what you’re going to use it for and pick the right equipment for the job if you’re looking to purchase a dive knife. So, let us glance at the few variables that you need to remember in order to find the knife that works best for you.

WHETTING A DIVE KNIFE

If you don’t know what you’re doing, whetting a diving knife can be difficult. While you might try to use a whetstone, one of the best methods is a ceramic rod whet with built-in guides.

First, depending on the structure, the whetting frequency for titanium alloy diving knives varies. Beta titanium alloy alloys, for example, are considered military grade. The titanium alloy is a tougher material with better blade retention than titanium alloy knives of lower grade. There is also the fact that certain “titanium alloy dive knives” are not made of titanium alloy steel. They are currently covered only in titanium alloy to improve corrosion resistance. This thin layer is added.

DIVE LENGHT

A dive knife should not be more than 6 inches (12 cm)

CUTTING BLADES

A simple blade is good for making clean slicing cuts. If the cutting blade is curved, this form of cutting motion is particularly effective. Simple blades are easy to manage as well. With little effort, anyone with a piece of simple whetting equipment can hold a straight blade razor-sharp. 

For example, it would take ages to slice through a one-third inch anchor line using a straight blade, but a jagged blade would make it work quickly because the teeth will enter deep into the material. Also, a saw-toothed blade remains very sharp for a longer time than a plain blade, but whetting is a little more difficult. Since these various blade blades excel in cutting various material types, both are provided by most diving knives, even on a similar cutting plane.

MAINTENANCE TIPS

Inspect the knife for corrosion before the dive. You should use a cleaning solution and scrub the blade with a clean rag, a towel, or some soft steel wool if you discover that your diving knife has some rust spots. You can then check if the locking mechanism on your knife is working properly. Lubricate it with silicon if needed. Disassemble your knife every once in a while, if you can. To ensure that no salt or sand has made its way into the inner sections, remove the handle and give the equipment a very thorough clean. If required, whet your diving knife.

You are using a cross-hatched fine metal file to whet a plain tip. The blade will be sharp but rough in this way. Better than the stone-whetted tip, it will slice through the cord. Rinse your knife with fresh water after each dive and clean it to remove any remaining salt or debris. Dry the knife completely. It would help if you coated the blade with silicone grease once you’re finished diving for the day. Finally, note that you can never use it to harass or kill marine life no matter what knife you use. A diving knife is primarily a protection device, not a piece of equipment, so use it ethically and appropriately.

MATERIAL USED IN THE PRODUCTION OF THE BLADE

Stainless Steel: 

The word “stainless steel” is a misleading term. Stainless steel rust, only slower than ordinary steel, requiring maintenance. After each dive, rinse your knife with fresh water and let it dry uncovered or outside its sheath. Stainless steel knives also come with a series number, usually 300 or 400-series. You can also use stainless soil or rub it with silicone. The lower the number, the more corrosion-resistant the blade is. A lower number of knives, however, will lose their blade faster. A knife of the 300 series will not rust as easily as a knife of the 400 series, but the 400 will remain sharper, so they each need their special attention.

Titanium alloy: 

 since they contain no carbon for oxidation, they are almost completely rustproof and corrosion-resistant. A titanium alloy dive knife maintains a great blade and reduces the time needed for maintenance. It is lighter and more resilient than steel and, thus, more difficult to crack. They are much pricier than their steel counterparts, though, and should still be preserved Titanium alloy dive knives to preserve their efficiency.

Conclusion

With several versions of diving knives, several knife whetting pieces of equipment on the market. The best ones use whetting rods for a dive knife to make the saw-toothed blade easier to whet. You can also pass the dive knife through a basic electric knife whet. Electric whet knife won’t harm the sharp blade or the saw-toothed blade. Check if it’s a true titanium alloy or just a titanium alloy coating if you have a titanium alloy dive knife.

Dive knives can lose the titanium alloy layer with just a titanium alloy coating, so be careful when whetting. Bear in mind, your diving knife is never a piece of equipment, nor should it be used to threaten or kill marine life. Safely and wisely, use your knife.

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